So cameras work in
Stops and composite packages use Gain. To convert between the two we need to do a bit of log maths. Heres how.
To convert from Stops (f) to Gain
Gain = 2 f
To convert from Gain to stops (f)
f = log 2 Gain
This is equivalent to:
f = ( log 10 Gain ) / ( log 10 2 )
If you want to see why then we’ll need to look a little deeper at log maths
It’s worth checking out
arenafilm who have a detailed database of filmbacks and lens combinations for various cameras.
dpreview have a review of sensor sizes for DSLRs.
I’ll try and keep a useful summary here.
Alexa 26.136 x 14.702 mm / 1.0290 x 0.5788” (Monitoring/EVF)
3168 x 1782
Alexa 23.760 x 13.365 mm / 0.9354 x 0.5262” (ProRes)
1920 x 1080
Alexa 23.760 x 13.365 mm / 0.9354 x 0.5262” (RAW)
2880 x 1620
5120 x 2700
I take a lot of HDR images for vfx work. I’m on a quest for the perfect setup that’s super fast to use on set. Here’s the HDR photography equipment and software I’m investigating. I’ll add more as I find it.
Control your Canon EOS with your Android device
dslrcontroller.com. The specs on this look amazing. Frankly I’m temped to replace my iPad with and Android tablet just to try this out.
Mod your canon dslr firmware using
Magic Lantern firmware.
Includes HDR Bracketing for stills and hdr video (which is just nuts frankly)
CHDK is a great project for Canon’s Point-and-Shoot cameras. CHDK gets loaded into your camera’s memory upon bootup and is a temporary change to the firmware.
It runs simple Lua Scripts. You can write your own or download them from the community wiki.
Some links for auto bracketing exposures. Using software or remote control
Control your camera using a scripting language
Expensive do everything dslr remote control
OnOne’s dSLR Remote for the iPhone … unfortunately you still need a laptop to connect to your camera and run the software. But it has some useful applications.
Trigger Trap Produces a bunch of devices and an app for the iPhone that will trigger your DSLR in creative ways using various sensors and timers.